I’ll admit, down here south of Tucson, close to the Mexican border, when I saw “homemade biscuit” on the menu, I got excited. But then immediately suspicious. I thought, “Ain’t no way this biscuit ain’t got sugar in it.”
Y’all know my policy on putting sugar in biscuits and cornbread: it’s a sin and a travesty. If I wanted a scone or polenta cake, that’s what I’d order.
I am pleased to report this biscuit is not sweet and of perfect dimensions for a sausage patty that is not overwrought. (Some of these folks get out of hand with the spices in artisanal sausage - let that pork alone, baby.)
A note for the curious: Biscuits in the American South trace back to British quick breads, but ours took a turn - fluffier, flakier, and meant to soak up gravy or sandwich a fat slice of country ham. Sugar was never part of the plan. That came later, mostly from corporate test kitchens and folks trying to make biscuits behave like muffins. Let us not rewrite what wasn’t broken.
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